an italian birthday celebration: 48 hours in florence

This post contains affiliate links, which means I may receive a small commission on anything purchased through those links at no extra cost to you. For more info, see my complete disclosure.

For a full list of what to eat, where to stay, and things to do in Florence based on our experience, scroll to the bottom of this post.

As you may have already gathered if you follow me on Instagram, we spent my 30th birthday celebrating in Italy! My mom flew into Germany on the Wednesday before I said goodbye to my 20s, and we flew to Florence on Thursday. I have to admit I've been terrible at taking photos on our most recent trips - I've been carrying Miles in the Ergo, and he's usually trying to rip the camera from my hands or screaming about it blocking his view.

Since I took Josh to drive a Ferrari for his 30th birthday a few years ago and we're living in Europe for mine, he knew we had to do something extraordinary. I let it be known basically as soon as we moved here that I wanted to celebrate in Italy, but I pretty much left the choice of city up to him. Having been to Rome, Venice, and Florence back in college, the latter was the one that stood out most in his memory, so that's where we went! And I must admit, a great choice it was... Florence is right up there with Amsterdam as my favorite city in Europe.

The shopping! The history! The food! Oh.my.gosh.the.food. AMAZING.

By the time our flight landed on Thursday and we got settled into our airbnb, it was getting pretty late. We decided to head over to the upstairs of Mercato Centrale to get a quick dinner. Despite warnings that it was a more "touristy" spot, the food was incredible. I had a truffle pasta dish (which Miles, shockingly, LOVED - a refined palate!), my mom had pasta with fig and sausage, and Josh had a sausage and collard green pizza. And because when in Rome... errr, Florence... we capped it all off with cannoli.

The next day, we hit the ground running. We wandered around town to see some of the sights, stopped for gelato (duh!), picked up sandwiches for lunch at I Due Fratellini (on the recommendation of multiple friends), perused some art at the Uffizi Gallery (where Miles proceeded to have an EPIC meltdown to trump all meltdowns), bought a new leather jacket at Sabani, and finished the evening with a lovely dinner at Trattoria da Giorgio per the recommendation of our airbnb host.

All those things were awesome, but by far the highlight of the trip for me was the goings-on we had planned for Saturday. We booked this incredibly well-reviewed cooking class on Viator, left Miles with his Grandma for the day, and set off on a Tuscan adventure. 

It started with a little tour of the city with our excellent guide, Gloria, from Walkabout Florence, and our fellow students from Australia, Indonesia, and a fellow American family stationed in Italy. We stopped at produce stands, bakeries, and the huge market to pick up essentials for the feast we would be creating later that day...

Once we had everything we needed, everyone loaded into a couple of cabs to escape this city to the cutest little farmhouse where we met our instructors for the day. Chef Isaac is a Seattle-native who's been living and cooking in Italy for many years, and Carmella is the cutest Italian grandmotherly character. She barely speaks a word of English but had no reservations about singing, clapping, and chattering in Italian even though none of the students understood her.

The menu included bruschetta on fresh Tuscan bread, homemade pasta with ragu, pork loin with roasted potatoes, pizza from scratch and cooked in the outdoor brick oven (see me tossing the dough below... I look terrified!), gelato with aged balsamic, and tiramisu.

We concluded the afternoon of cooking with eating our finished products alongside free-flowing Chianti and this view...

Josh and I left with our hearts and bellies full, feeling refreshed and grateful for the experience. And we were super happy to meet back up with my mom and Miles who'd had a day of adventures themselves! We did some more shopping in the outdoor market for scarves (so many scarves and so cheap!), made one last stop for some more leather, and headed back to our apartment for some shuteye before flying out early Sunday morning.

I can truly say it was everything I hoped for and more, and I can't think of a better way to kick off my 30s! I absolutely fell in love with Florence, from the incredible food to the the beautiful city rich in history to the excellent wine and the Florentine people, who were so very friendly and just seem to love life.

If you'd like to check out some of the places we enjoyed in Florence, here's a complete list with a few additional details included:

where to stay in florence

airbnb is our favorite way to travel as a family, especially in Europe where hotel rooms tend to be tiny and often don't even have a mini fridge. You get to experience the city as a local, and it's usually cheaper than hotels, too! The great thing about Florence is that virtually anywhere you stay within the city is walking distance to everything you'd wanna do.

what to do in florence

A Tuscan cooking class: I can't recommend this one highly enough! On top of the actual class, we got a great little tour of the city, plus a full day's worth of meals. And let's not forget the stunning views from the farmhouse outside of the city. We had a great experience with Walkabout Florence (request Gloria as your guide!), which we booked through Viator

Shop for scarves and leather: Our favorite shop for leather items was Sabani. For scarves, we just bought at the outdoor market outside Mercato Centrale. Beware that you should go in ready to negotiate. We found that you could haggle on price at most places, especially if you're buying in bulk.

Escape indoors to the Uffizi Gallery: The building is gorgeous, and though we didn't enjoy it because of a certain toddler, they have a nice little cafe with a lovely view. Be sure to check out the works of daVinci and Michelangelo on display.

where to eat in florence

Mercato Centrale: Above the markets in the center of town is an epicurian dream - they've got everything from pizza and pasta to burgers and steaks to fish and charcuterie. And don't forget about the gelato and cannoli. We were warned that this place is a bit on the touristy side, and though that may be true, the food was still incredible. I'd recommend just one thing, except that everything we at was absolutely delicious. Bonus points that it's super kid-friendly, too, from the many options to the abundance of high chairs.

I Due Fratellini: This little, literal hole-in-the-wall sandwich shop was recommended to us by not one, but two friends who've each spent more than their fair share of time in Italy. Get a simple but tasty sandwich and a glass of wine for next to nothing, and enjoy it on the sidewalk. I thought Josh's was best, so I say order the panini with prosciutto crudo, caprino, and rucola - if you forget, it's the first one on their menu.

Trattoria da GiorgioThis one was recommended to us by our airbnb host, as it was less than two minutes up the street from our apartment. Away from the city center, you can guarantee it's not a tourist trap. The crowd seemed to be a mix of locals and visitors who had likely received a recommendation just like us. Not only was it family friendly, but the prices can't be beat - at dinner, its only 15€ for two courses, a side dish, bread, wine, and water. They have quite an extensive menu, as well.

a weekend on the coast of holland: bloemendaal and haarlem

This post may contain affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission on anything purchased through those links at no extra cost to you. For more info, see my complete disclosure.

For a full list of what to eat, where to stay, and things to do in Holland based on our experience, scroll to the bottom of this post.

The beach at Bloemendaal aan Zee - on the North Sea

This weekend was a long one here in Germany with today being Unity Day - a holiday recognizing the unification of East and West Germany - and we just returned from a little getaway to the Netherlands. It seems Holland is our go to place, but we just love it so darned much. The weather is typically nice (or at least nicer than here in Aachen), the people are kind (and almost all speak English!), and we've yet to be disappointed by any Dutch city we've visited.

This time, we ventured to the beach - a little town called Bloemendaal aan Zee - right on the North Sea. We had a great, modern condo with an ocean view, and although it was quite chilly and windy, we thoroughly enjoyed our time there.

Miles sees the beach for the first time. Taken with iPhone 6.

Miles sees the beach for the first time. Taken with iPhone 6.

The wind was crazy, but we still had to get a family photo! Taken with iPhone 6.

The wind was crazy, but we still had to get a family photo! Taken with iPhone 6.

The awesome thing about this area is that it's only about 10 minutes by car from the city of Haarlem. We've been to Amsterdam a couple of times now but had never ventured west to this area. After going there, I'm deeming it one of the Netherlands' (and possibly Europe's) best kept secrets.

One of the canals in Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

One of the canals in Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

When I was prepping for our trip, I tried searching online for things to do and see, great places to eat, and where to find the best coffee in Haarlem, but my searches didn't turn up many results. I was ever so slightly concerned but figured we'd, at the very least, stumble upon some decent spots for a meal or a cup of joe. Well, let me tell you - DO NOT let the fact that Google isn't teeming with travel blogs about this North Holland city make you think for one second that it's not worth visiting.

Dutch architecture abounds in Haarlem's streets. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

Dutch architecture abounds in Haarlem's streets. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

So many bikes in Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

So many bikes in Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

It has all the beauty of Amsterdam's canals and Dutch architecture, but with a quaintness a large metropolitan city just doesn't offer. It's actually much like a version of Amsterdam's Jordaan neighborhood, which just happens to be our favorite part of the city. There are a few major landmarks - churches and museums and the like, and the city is filled with the most beautiful alleyways seemingly everywhere you turn.

St. Bavo Church, Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

St. Bavo Church, Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

Another gorgeous side street in Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

Another gorgeous side street in Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

Alley view of Haarlem's Nieuwe Kerk. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

Alley view of Haarlem's Nieuwe Kerk. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

We started our Saturday with hot, fresh stroopwafel at the outdoor market in Haarlem's main square and spent the remainder of the weekend eating and drinking 'til our hearts (and bellies) content at some of the best establishments we've encountered in our time in Europe. Our first stop was MICA Coffee Bar, where we enjoyed a delicious pour over coffee and housemade chai latte and had a friendly chat with our barista.

MICA Coffee Bar, Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

MICA Coffee Bar, Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

The avocado waffle with pickled red onion and pesto was both healthy and flavorful. Not pictured, but equally scrumptious, was the goat cheese and prosciutto waffle. MICA Coffee Bar, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

The avocado waffle with pickled red onion and pesto was both healthy and flavorful. Not pictured, but equally scrumptious, was the goat cheese and prosciutto waffle. MICA Coffee Bar, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

After our lunch, we did a little shopping on Haarlem's main street - Grote Houtstraat - as well as the smaller Kleine Houtstraat, filled with the most adorable local boutiques and specialty stores. Once the shops closed at 5 o'clock, we still had some time to kill before the restaurant opened for dinner, so we headed over to the local Jopen brewery (housed in an old church!) for a quick libation.

Jopen Brewery, Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

Jopen Brewery, Haarlem. Photo taken with Fuji X100S, edited with VSCO.

Having a drink al fresco at Jopen Brewery, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

Having a drink al fresco at Jopen Brewery, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

What happened next can only be described as a miracle. In North Holland, of all places, we found real, wonderful, glorious Mexican food. Those who know me know that Mexican food is my all time favorite and is IMPOSSIBLE to find here. I'm not exaggerating when I say I almost cried when the good folks at Cantina 023 delivered hot tortilla chips and the best spicy homemade salsa to the table. 

 Enchiladas at Cantina 023 in Haarlem.

 Enchiladas at Cantina 023 in Haarlem.

Pork tacos at Cantina 023 in Haarlem.

Pork tacos at Cantina 023 in Haarlem.

On Sunday, after some early morning snuggles with Miles (the best!), we grabbed breakfast at the little cafe next to our condo and spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon relaxing on the couch as the rain fell outside. Once it cleared up a bit, we ventured back into Haarlem, where we had our caffeine fix and a yummy slice of carrot cake at NATIVE

NATIVE, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

NATIVE, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

We then headed to Roast Chicken Bar, where we indulged in yet another delicious dinner. Quite honestly, this place looked like it could have been straight out of Nashville, Tennessee. Their menu has one entree - chicken - roasted over charcoal on a open spit at the entrance of the restaurant. I can honestly say I've never had such a flavorful, melt-in-your-mouth bird in all my life. For our sides, we had fries with homemade mayo, grilled corn, and apple compote. The food here was so good, we went to their brunch restaurant, The Egg Store, on our way out of town for the most delicious smoked salmon benedict and pulled BBQ chicken with waffles. I could make the trip all the way back to only eat here.

Roast Chicken Bar and The Egg Store, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

Roast Chicken Bar and The Egg Store, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

Roast Chicken Bar and The Egg Store, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

Roast Chicken Bar and The Egg Store, Haarlem. Photo taken with iPhone 6.

If you're heading to Amsterdam or are anywhere near enough to make a day trip, I highly recommend Haarlem! I've fallen in love with it, and I'm sure that you will, too. 

If you'd like to check out some of the places we enjoyed in Haarlem and the North Sea coast, here's a complete list with a few additional details included:

where to stay in bloemendaal and haarlem

We wanted to stay at the beach where we new it would be quiet and relaxing (even though it was cold and windy as all get out), and this apartment was perfect. The rental staff was so super nice, and the view was amazing. There were a couple of restaurants within walking distance, and the nearest grocery store is just a short drive away in the next town over, Zandvoort. I would definitely recommend it if you're craving the salty air. 

However, if you'd rather have the conveniences of Haarlem, there are a ton of really great apartments on airbnb.

where to eat and drink in haarlem

Coffee: We're kind of coffee snobs, me and the mister, so wherever we go, we make it our mission to find the best cup of joe around. MICA Coffee Bar and NATIVE were both absolutely excellent. We had both drip coffee and chai lattes at each that were heavenly. The food was also excellent - I highly recommend the avocado waffle at MICA served with perfectly crisp pickled red onions and pesto.

The Egg Store and Roast Chicken Bar: This place was so good for dinner, we went back the very next morning for breakfast. Their dinner menu consists of one entree - their perfectly roasted chickens. Not only are the bird and all the sides scrumptious, but it's super kid-friendly food, too.

Cantina 023: While I realize that everyone may not be jonesing for Mexican food like me, this place really was legit. By far the most authentic we've had in Europe. And the salsa is SPICY.

Jopen Brewery: Not only is this a cool place to see... I mean, it's a brewery in a church. Come on, now. But they've also got a great beer selection.

what to do in bloemendaal and haarlem

Feel the ocean breeze: Visit the beaches at Bloemendaal aan Zee (quieter and calmer) or Zandvoort (more to do, but also busier). The beaches here are absolutely beautiful, and even in the cold weather, there were plenty of surfers and kite fliers to watch.

Shop: Haarlem has some great shopping... it's actually considered one of the best places to shop in the Netherlands. Visit the many local and designer boutiques for anything from antiques to the most stylish clothing.

Sightsee: Step in the beautiful St. Bavo's Church, where Handel and Mozart have played the organ. Wander the streets and alleyways and stop to take in the beautiful doors and front step gardens. Read The Hiding Place, and then visit the Corrie Ten Boom house to learn about how this brave family helped to save many Jews in Haarlem during WWII.

a day trip to bastogne, belgium

While my dad was visiting a few weeks ago, we decided to take a day trip to Bastogne. It's under two hours from where we live and is a beautiful drive through rolling hills and little towns. In case you're not familiar, the siege of Bastogne was a major turning point in the Battle of the Bulge during World War II. I knew a bit about it from the series Band of Brothers - if you haven't watched it, I highly recommend you do so immediately. If you have Amazon Prime, you can watch for free using Prime Video (...and if you don't have it, you should - you can try it out and watch the series here with a free 30 day trial)! 

And in case you didn't already know this about me, I am utterly fascinated by war history - especially WWII. I wouldn't call myself a history buff per se, but I'm always intrigued by the individual stories and perspectives. Perhaps it's because of the little bit I know about my granddaddy's time in the Marines or maybe it's simply because the stories and the ways these events have shaped the world we live in today are fascinating, but I'm a sucker for it.

Outside view of the Bastogne War Museum.

Outside view of the Bastogne War Museum.

We started at the Bastogne War Museum, tucked in the quiet Belgian countryside just outside of the city. The museum was beautifully laid out and included a great deal of information and artifacts along with a well done audio tour chronicling the perspectives of an American soldier, a German soldier, a member of the resistance movement, and a young Belgian boy.

It began with timelines of World War I, Hitler's rise to power, and Belgium's role in the wars.

American soldiers in vehicles like these pulled children inside for rides and shared treats such as bubblegum with them.

The preserved newspapers updating Americans stateside of the goings on were especially interesting.

Outside the museum is the Mardasson Memorial, completed in 1950 and dedicated to the American soldiers who fought and sacrificed in the Battle of the Bulge.

When we left the museum, we took a backroad and stumbled across a memorial honoring 'E' Company of the 101st Airborne division, who defended Bastogne from foxholes in the very woods behind this monument.

The city of Bastogne and the surrounding countryside are filled with monuments, flags, and war memorabilia recognizing the U.S. troops and the sacrifice they made to protect the people of Bastogne.

It was truly a humbling experience to visit this place, and if you're ever close enough to the area to make a day trip, I highly recommend it. It's so easy to forget that the increasingly distant history was once a present reality and seeing a place like this up close and personal is a great reminder of that.